Dan and I spent three and a half days in Alleppey towards the end of May, which is a small tropical village in southern Kerala. Alleppey has chaotic streets with no footpaths, horrendous bathrooms (there are no words), 40 degree heat, insane humidity and very few facilities with air conditioning. Around 15% of the men would stop and silently eyeball me, their heads swiveling to follow my progress, as I walked down the street - covered to the same extent as the local women and accompanied by Dan.
So what was the appeal?
Alleppey is pretty much the best starting point from which to see the Kerala backwaters. The backwaters are well described in the Lonely Planet as:
“A 900km long network of waterways that fringe the coast and trickle far inland…Trips through the backwaters cross shallow, palm fringed lakes studded with cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, and travel along narrow shady canals where coir (coconut fibre), copra (dried coconut meat) and cashews are loaded into boats. Along the way are small villages with mosques, churches, temples and schools, villagers going about their daily chores and tiny settlements where people live on narrow spits of reclaimed land only a few metres wide.”
Starting from Alleppey, we meandered through the charming backwaters on our own private kettuvallam (a traditional houseboat) which had a large lounge area, a double bedroom, a private ensuite and a personal chef. It was wonderful - you just about forget your own name while sitting on the edge of the boat, sipping from a glass of freshly squeezed fruit juice, waving to the local children and letting your feet drag through the water (until you see a water snake). I found out yesterday at the crocodile park in Chennai that there would also have been crocodiles….
Anyway, it was bliss.
The hectic streets of Alleppey
Our houseboat, what a beauty.
Dinner on the boat, breakfast was pretty awesome too. To your right, local mass transit
Caught up in 'The Suspicions of Mr Whicher' or 'The Murder at Road Hill House'... good book, awful photo.
Some of these house boats were pretty epic... Kitted out with AC and multiple levels filled with large Indian families playing loud Indian party music.
I had to include this one out of admiration for this little lizard. While all the others were hiding off to the side, this little guy boldly makes his way to the centre of the ceiling. In full view, he parks himself on the light fixture and begins to feast on the banquet of mosquitoes and moths. Alpha lizard.
So what was the appeal?
Alleppey is pretty much the best starting point from which to see the Kerala backwaters. The backwaters are well described in the Lonely Planet as:
“A 900km long network of waterways that fringe the coast and trickle far inland…Trips through the backwaters cross shallow, palm fringed lakes studded with cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, and travel along narrow shady canals where coir (coconut fibre), copra (dried coconut meat) and cashews are loaded into boats. Along the way are small villages with mosques, churches, temples and schools, villagers going about their daily chores and tiny settlements where people live on narrow spits of reclaimed land only a few metres wide.”
Starting from Alleppey, we meandered through the charming backwaters on our own private kettuvallam (a traditional houseboat) which had a large lounge area, a double bedroom, a private ensuite and a personal chef. It was wonderful - you just about forget your own name while sitting on the edge of the boat, sipping from a glass of freshly squeezed fruit juice, waving to the local children and letting your feet drag through the water (until you see a water snake). I found out yesterday at the crocodile park in Chennai that there would also have been crocodiles….
Anyway, it was bliss.
The hectic streets of Alleppey
Our houseboat, what a beauty.
Dinner on the boat, breakfast was pretty awesome too. To your right, local mass transit
Caught up in 'The Suspicions of Mr Whicher' or 'The Murder at Road Hill House'... good book, awful photo.
Some of these house boats were pretty epic... Kitted out with AC and multiple levels filled with large Indian families playing loud Indian party music.
I had to include this one out of admiration for this little lizard. While all the others were hiding off to the side, this little guy boldly makes his way to the centre of the ceiling. In full view, he parks himself on the light fixture and begins to feast on the banquet of mosquitoes and moths. Alpha lizard.
That sure looks relaxing!
ReplyDeleteMean houseboat! That looks lush!
ReplyDelete