Sunday 29 May 2011

Go Goa!

Dan and I spent about eight days in Goa and really loved it. It is a chilled out coastal region which was inundated with hippies in the 60s, many of whom never left. Strangely the remaining hippies did not look very relaxed, with tense body language and facial expressions that reminded me of Easter Island statues. The indigenous people were polar opposites – smiling, friendly and hospitable.

We did a lot of western tourist stuff which would probably not be very exciting to read about – food, beach, restaurants, scootering, markets (we are getting better at haggling – now I am starting at 1/3 of the originally stated price. This may still be too high.)

The most beautiful building that we saw was the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa. The Basilica is famous for containing the body of St Francis Xavier, Goa’s patron saint. He achieved sainthood posthumously when his body failed to decompose, despite having four sacks of quicklime emptied into his coffin. Just over a year later his body was returned to Goa, medically examined and found to be ‘untainted’. He was reburied, but his coffin was opened frequently to show visiting religious persons, and parts were removed as keepsakes, which seems to have been the style of the time. Now it is brought out every 10 years for display (next screening 2014 for anyone who is keen!). I tried to find out how long it took the body to start decomposing but it was difficult to find anything concrete. He died in 1552, and from what I found online, in the 1680s the body started drying up and orders were issued that the coffin remain closed henceforth. It was opened later that decade and the body was likely to have been in a more advanced state of decay as the church feared that the devotion of the general population would pall if the body was to be seen in that condition.

     A pretty classic street in Anjuna  |  Our awesome hostel, the Orange House
     Our brunette Soph, doing what we did best in Anjuna
     The church of St Francis Xavier, Goa’s patron saint  |  Below you can see the inside

     In the middle is a lightbox showing Xavier's mortal remains, everybody was clamoring to get a shot of that  
     one!  |  This classic 'buddy christ' style was everywhere in Goa, I kept expecting the statues to be giving a
     thumbs up...
     Soph checking out some wares at the flea market, most of the stuff was pretty cool. Some really
     interesting hippie/indian mixes of styles
     A beautiful temple on our road to the beach  |  Soph making friends with some locals, they were cute but    
     very insistent that we give them rupees... they were a little disappointed when I gave them a NZ coin each
      Cricket! It was only a matter of time
      They invited me to play a game... but unfortunately I let NZ down and got out for a duck.
     Our favorite mode of transport  |  India's favorite mode of transport... the Royal Enfield 500 & 350cc.
     I am yet to get my hands on one.
     Yet another beautiful church  |  Below is a series I made of the little shrines you see everywhere in Goa,
     and these are seriously just a tiny sample.
     Sunset restaurant, our favorite. Right on the edge of Anjuna beach. We spent many a night watching the 
     sun set here  |  And finally, a bizarre cloud formation that took our fancy

Saturday 14 May 2011

Mumbai Madness

Hi everyone,

After a mammoth transit from Auckland – Christchurch – Kuala Lumpur – Mumbai we arrived in Mumbai at midday on Monday (about 5.30pm NZ time) – and it was so different…

We stayed at a hotel(ish place) in Chenbur, which the hotel website said was extremely central, but was actually a 25 minute train ride from the centre of town and far from the types of activities which are commonly attractive to tourists! It was a bit annoying when we were trying to see the tourist things, but actually turned out to be pretty cool overall as we were just off the main street of the Chenbur neighbourhood and it felt like we got a bit more of a genuine look at daily life in Mumbai. It is so so busy – the street is packed with people walking, running, sitting, selling, begging, lobbying, gesturing, arguing, loitering, as well as with an army of yellow and black cabs, tuk-tuks, motorbikes and the occasional BMW that generally keep left, but otherwise abide by no road rules. Indicating is unheard of and there are no road markings at all – the drivers avoid collision by honking incessantly to let everyone know exactly where they are. For any planning geeks out there, I’d call it a hyperactive street frontage.

It is a real mono-culture ethnically which was extremely strange to me at first (Dan saw it in Iran). Culturally it is a bit more diverse - the income gap is hugely apparent, plus the different religious groups dress, walk and eat differently. You also see heaps of people in western dress which I didn't really expect, but something in common that they all have is that everyone is covered to the ankles. Tops are a bit more lenient, as sleeveless is permissible but definitely no cleavage!

We both felt a bit culture-shocked the first couple of days. I thought that I was going to be too super-cool of a traveler to be so, but quickly found otherwise! Mumbai just challenged and overwhelmed all of my senses – the beggar women tugging at my sleeve, the cacophony of vehicle honking and people everywhere deafening my thoughts, the smells making me gag in revulsion (think human waste in 35 degree heat) as well as sending me to paradise with the variety of cooking foods and incense drifting down the street, visually trying to keep tabs on all the street activity, and the frequent thirst. That sounds quite negative, but there were so many positives – the incredible food, the colonial architecture, the visually enchanting sari’s that make even the poorest women look incredibly glamourous, the beautiful smiles of everyone who catches your eye and the friendliness and eagerness to help of everyone that we have encountered.

We got the hang of things a bit more after the first day or two, and have learnt to take life slowly and not expect to accomplish things quickly or efficiently - so now we're happy to stop and grab a dosa when the trains have people hanging out on either side and all over the roofs and we have not a chance of getting on for half an hour at least, and have learnt that you should definitely not breathe through your nose while you’re drinking from your bottled water just in case some particularly foul stench comes your way at that moment. The afternoon siesta is particularly important as the heat between 11.30 and 3.30 is unreal, although the Indian people seem to be oblivious of it (there are a suspiciously large number of deodorant ads on tv though….).

After four days in Mumbai we took a train south to Anjuna in Goa, arriving late last night. So far it is a tropical paradise with scooters, palm trees, markets galore, and orange sanded beaches bordered with shack restaurants where you can order fresh fish and feni while watching the sun set hooray!

     View from our room in Mumbai | "Deck surfing" the rocky boat to Elephanta Island
     Soph on the little train from the docks
     Cute little friends | Walkway to the temple

     Lacking a sense of scale here... my head reached about the bottom of the necklace in the first picture
     A relieved Sophie out of the hot sun | We had to pay for this one so it's going up...

     First class train carriage, a little different to what you expect... but much less crammed than the others.
     Well, outside of peak hours anyway. One day we tried to get on the train at about 9:30am and even first
     class was so packed that people trying to jam themselves through the door got pushed aside when the
     train started moving and were stuck waiting for the next one (us included), which is thankfully is only ever
     4 minutes away.
     Washed up trash on the beach, with the rich district in the distance
     Hanging out with an elephant at the hanging gardens | Temple ceiling
     From what we gathered, this is a temple for a small religion that is a fusion of Hindu & Buddhism
     Ghandi's base of operations in Mumbai, now a museum | Dhobi Ghat, where all the clothes are washed
     (not ours though, we are still surviving on what we packed... for now)